1) If you have a dog who can manage to slip their heads backwards out of a flat collar, this one will tighten up just enough to not allow them to escape.
2) The design of this collar allows a good handle for grabbing your dog in an exciting situation to gently guide them into position. In my situation, I use them if we have a visitor come to the door and I need to hold onto my dogs while I greet said visitor. The beauty of a martingale is that your dog will not be able to slip out of the collar, but the collar never becomes tight enough to restrict your dog’s air supply. Win-win!
Training Harnesses- As a dog trainer, I see a lot of dogs in need of leash manners, and almost half of them are walking on traditional-type harnesses when they meet me. Traditional harnesses go across the dog’s chest, under their armpits, and have a loop between the dog’s shoulder blades for the leash. The problem with this type of traditional harness is that the harness actually helps the dog to pull harder; it distributes the weight that the dog is throwing into their chest, and doesn’t put pressure on the dog’s neck. The end result is a dog that can just pull, pull, pull! So unless you are actively training for the Iditarod, you might want to check out a front-clip training harness. The most popular front-clip training harness brands include the EZ-Walk harness, Sensation harness, and Freedom harness. To the untrained eye, this may look like an ordinary harness. But instead of clipping on your dog’s back, (where your dog can gain pulling leverage), they clip on your dog’s chest. So every time your pup pulls, he gets turned around to face you, thus stopping the dog’s forward motion. If you have not tried one yet for your pulling dog, run…don’t walk… to the store to get one. They are the most popular training collars on the market today, and for good reason. Your shoulder will thank you! Head Collars- When I have a client who needs super control, this is where we go! I joke with people that putting this collar on a dog is like putting power steering fluid into a car that was handling roughly. Head collars were designed by horse people who understood that when you have control of the head of a powerful animal, you could easily control the rest of the body as well (precisely why you steer a horse with a bridle and a bit, not a collar around his neck!). This collar takes a bit more training to learn to use, for both the owner and the dog, so there’s a bit of a break-in period. Many dogs do not like the feel of something foreign on their face, but once your dog learns to work in this collar, walks will be a breeze! Pinch, Pop, Prick: what’s the deal with aversive collars? I get asked this. . . a lot! What about choke chains, prong collars, and electronic collars? Every trainer has a different opinion of training methodology and the right tools to use for the job. In my opinion, in the right hands, these collars can work. However, I don’t make a habit of recommending them to my clients. I find that positive reinforcement techniques are a more reliable method of training which promotes obedience through the human/animal bond. So I choose to not use aversive collars such as those previously mentioned. Especially since there are so many collars out there that are truly positive, yet still super effective. If you are going to use an aversive collar, make sure that you are doing so under the supervision of a certified professional trainer who is fluent in that kind of collar to avoid injury (physical or psychological) to your dog. I hope this article has helped you figure out the right training collar to use for your pup. Still confused at all of the options? Ask an expert! The trainers at Philly Unleashed are always available to help you talk through what type of collar to choose and help you acclimate your dog to the perfect type of training collar.